Back to Eliot’s procrastinating Prufrock,
“… time yet for a hundred indecisions,
And for a hundred visions and revisions,
Before the taking of a toast and tea.”
What else do you need on your tea table, alongside the
cruet, the milk jug and the sugar bowl? Why, a toast rack, of course.
I bought this one on eBay for a mere £3.20 + £2.83 p&p.
It is EPNS (Electro-plated Nickel Silver), with five-bars and a circular
handle.
The marks tell me that it was made by Robert Pringle of London
in about 1882, (after that date, it became Robert Pringle & Co., Robert
Pringle & Sons in 1899, and Robert Pringle & Sons (London) Ltd. in
1931). The 02195 stamp is the pattern number.
Toast racks are, of course, used to keep the toast crisp, by
separating the slices and stopping the moisture that evaporates from them
making them soggy. They can also be used as a letter rack.
The thing is, what do you spread on your toast? Do you go
sweet or savoury? Sweet – is it jam, marmalade or honey? If you go for jam,
what flavour? My favourite jams are made by Wilkin and Sons, Tiptree. If you
can find it, I recommend their Little Scarlet strawberry jam – I say if you can
find it, as they only make a limited amount each year. Wilkins are the only
makers to grow, and make jam from, the Little Scarlet variety of strawberry, a
tiny berry but full of intense flavour. They are picked during a three-week
period in mid-June and cooked in small batches before bottling. The firm reckon
that they can produce enough for four or five months supply, and after that –
well, you just have to wait until next year. Or you can do what I did – go for
their Morello Cherry preserve.
I only hesitate from recommending Little Scarlet for one
reason. In From Russia, With Love (1957), Ian Fleming writes: - Breakfast
was Bond's favourite meal of the day. When he was stationed in London it was
always the same. It consisted of very strong coffee . . . two slices of
wholewheat toast, a large pat of deep yellow Jersey butter and three squat
glass jars containing Tiptree 'Little Scarlet' strawberry jam; Cooper's Vintage
Oxford marmalade and Norwegian Heather Honey from Fortnum's.
James Bond is one of the most boorish characters in English
fiction. He is a horrible, horrible creation. But that said, his taste of
breakfast is exquisite. Wholewheat toast – yes, please. Jersey butter –
absolutely. Little Scarlet – see above. Frank Cooper’s Vintage Oxford marmalade
– undoubtedly. Norwegian Heather Honey from Fortnum’s – well, now you’re just
being silly.
Frank Cooper’s marmalade has been made since 1874. It is the
Queen’s marmalade of choice, Captain Scott took Cooper’s with him on his
ill-fated 1911 Antarctic expedition, and Sir Edmund Hillary took it to Everest
in 1953.
‘Marmalade’ comes from the Portuguese marmelo – ‘quince’,
and was first imported into England in 1495. It deserves a separate post of its
own.
You could go savoury, though. There are only two real
options here – Marmite or Gentlemen’s Relish. Marmite sells itself on the ‘love
it or hate it’ idea, which is fair enough. A soft boiled egg without Marmite
soldiers is unthinkable. Marmite is a by-product of the brewing industry – it
is made from the spent yeast that has been used to make beer, and takes its
name from the French marmite cooking pot, the shape of which the jar echoes and
a picture of which appears on the label.
Patum Peperium, or Gentlemen’s Relish, is an anchovy paste,
made to a secret recipe from 1828, by Elsenhams. It contains 60% anchovies,
salt, spices, herbs and butter and is another acquired taste. It has a very
strong flavour but spread thinly on hot, buttered toast is delicious. You can
pick up a small plastic pot for just over £1.50 in many supermarkets, or lash
out £15.00 for a porcelain jar. What is not often realised is that it can also
be used to flavour other foods. The fishy taste of the anchovies breaks down
whilst cooking, and it adds a welcome umami tang to cottage pie or grilled
chops.
Talking of fishy food, it’s back to the Romans. An essential
ingredient in Roman cookery was garum, a condiment made from fermented fish
intestines. It sounds disgusting, but apparently the finished product was mild
and tasty, and not at all fishy. Romans added garum to almost everything, sweet
and savoury, and good quality garum brought high prices. Fish sauces remain
popular to this day – nam pla is widely used in Thai cooking, oyster sauce from
Cantonese cuisine, saeujeot in Korean food. What is not often realised is that
the English Worcestershire sauce is a variety of fish sauce – it too is
fermented and contains anchovies. I must use gallons of the stuff – try it in
stews, casseroles, ragus and chillis, or add a splash to either cheese or beans
on toast.
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